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Old 05-20-2008, 09:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Just picked up a 2000 zx11

Hi all!

well as the title states, i just bought a ninja zx11 with 11,000 miles from a dealer, i got the extended warranty, however i would still like to know what to look for as far as common problems, they replaced both tires and the fork seals before i picked it up. i heard a bit about this oil starvation problem and what not... any pointers? thanks in advance!!!
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Old 05-21-2008, 09:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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On some of the ZX 11s the oil passages for #3 do not line up. Oil does not get to the rod and you have a failure. Mr. Turbo, out of Houston Texas http://www.Mrturbo.com/
will extensively modify you pan. $300.00 That modification will direct oil to that rod bearing. Check out their site for the information.

If you go this route buy a pan on E-bay and send it out. That way you do not keep your bike layed up while the work is being done.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Keep your oil level at the top of the site glass.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejmesq View Post
On some of the ZX 11s the oil passages for #3 do not line up. Oil does not get to the rod and you have a failure. Mr. Turbo, out of Houston Texas http://www.Mrturbo.com/
will extensively modify you pan. $300.00 That modification will direct oil to that rod bearing. Check out their site for the information.

If you go this route buy a pan on E-bay and send it out. That way you do not keep your bike layed up while the work is being done.
Well, more or less true. Yes, there is a precise spot (on the crankshaft) where the oil passage is not perfectly aligned with the main bearing. However, this is present on each and every ZX-11 I've read about, even those that made 50k and even 75k miles without any problem. So this is not THE main cause for #3 failure.

And yes, having an oil pan bypass kit can help but many riders blew #3 anyway even with such a kit installed. The best (and cheapest) way to avoid it are:
- Oil level at the top of sight window
- No wheelie
- No high speed/high RPM riding for long period
- Using a good engine oil
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Old 05-21-2008, 03:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claude View Post
Well, more or less true. Yes, there is a precise spot (on the crankshaft) where the oil passage is not perfectly aligned with the main bearing. However, this is present on each and every ZX-11 I've read about, even those that made 50k and even 75k miles without any problem. So this is not THE main cause for #3 failure.

And yes, having an oil pan bypass kit can help but many riders blew #3 anyway even with such a kit installed. The best (and cheapest) way to avoid it are:
- Oil level at the top of sight window
- No wheelie
- No high speed/high RPM riding for long period
- Using a good engine oil

which engine oil would you suggest and what weight?
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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just do what jeremy and claude said. every set of cases i have had has the aligment problem with the main bearing. i use mobil 1
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ninja11zx View Post
just do what jeremy and claude said. every set of cases i have had has the aligment problem with the main bearing. i use mobil 1
weight?
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Claude:

The ZX 11 is so fast and the redline is so high. We weekly go out on 300 mile rides.

What do you consider high speed/RPM riding? 100-110 is not a strain. California highways, long desert highways and the speed can easily stay up there.
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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which engine oil would you suggest and what weight?
A good quality oil (not el cheapo Walmart brand). As for weight, most common is 10W40 and some are using 20W50 or 15W40 depending or your climate and brand of oil.
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Claude:

The ZX 11 is so fast and the redline is so high. We weekly go out on 300 mile rides.

What do you consider high speed/RPM riding? 100-110 is not a strain. California highways, long desert highways and the speed can easily stay up there.
In my book, the 11 is idling at 100~110 mph. I was more thinking at something at or over 155~160 mph for more than a few miles. But this is just my humble opinion; some others will think differently.
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i run mobil 10w30.
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Oh and mine is Motul 5100 10W40.
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I will prolly get blasted for this but i run castrol syntech 15w50 summer and 5w40 winter and have run it in all my bikes 2000 and above. My old 750 turbo I ran castrol gtx 20w50. NEVER any oil related issues. I agree with Claude...just buy name brand and keep it changed on a regular besis.
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Old 06-29-2008, 02:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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so ive put a little more than 1000k miles on it since i bought it...i ride hard so im thinking i might wanna change the oil soon...from what i read above i should be using regular motor oil? does the type of oil affect the clutch at all? i plan on dragracing this bike often any good oil for that?
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