Conventional Vs. Synthetic

[1992zx7]

Originally Posted by 185EZ

That's awesome but could have done the same with conventional oil.

I was running conventional oil in my harley's and kawasaki's.I started running amsoil in them and what a change.My harley's were running 10 degrees cooler and ran way better and smoother in 100 plus heat!!.My kawasaki's run cooler and smoother and shift way better no more chunky feeling.My clutchs last longer too.So i'll stick with amsoil there the best in my book.....

[Amsoil Dealer Group]

Originally Posted by Nightmare

Most good mechanics or engine builders will tell you the opposite. They do not recommend full syn till at earliest 4000 miles, and their preference is usually 5000-6000.

In an engine built in a machine shop, 3000 is plenty if they are any kind of machinist.

In an OEM Engine, there is no need for any break-in period. It is just to get machining and casting debris out of the engine.

Originally Posted by Nightmare

The main reason it is considered bad for break in period is the fact that it thins up quicker thann standard oil. This is why the oil your engine comes with is heavily mineral based oil. I figured you would disagree. Your also forgetting the difference in our engines compared to.... let's say a corvette. Our clutch is lubricated by the oil the is used in the engine itself, and transmission. Higher rpms then the corvette engine. Why do you think there are so many different addivtives in motorcycle oil then car oil. break in period is also different for our engines anyway. I will just stop here though, cause I see your the kind of person that needs last word.

Hmmmmm... I would really like to see any proof that a Premium Synthetic thins quicker. As matter of fact, AMSOIL Motorcycle Specific oil actually gain slightly in Viscosity.

No difference in break-in... there is none required for the bike or the car..

Originally Posted by 185EZ

That's awesome but could have done the same with conventional oil.

Again.... At least two to 3 times as many changes and there are still the performance benefits of using a Premium Synthetic.

Originally Posted by 1992zx7

I was running conventional oil in my harley's and kawasaki's.I started running amsoil in them and what a change.My harley's were running 10 degrees cooler and ran way better and smoother in 100 plus heat!!.My kawasaki's run cooler and smoother and shift way better no more chunky feeling.My clutchs last longer too.So i'll stick with amsoil there the best in my book.....

Great Testimonial... After 660 miles on my Ultra and a 5 MPH 11 mile ride, the petroleum oil was as black and thick as tar. Switched to AMSOIL and did the same ride. 275 degree oil temps and the oil was analyzed at over 9000 miles showing it was still good.

I never take the lowers off, I ride with bags and Tour Pak Loaded, Pull a loaded Trailer and just did 2500 miles in the last 2 weeks and most was 2 up. 2000 lbs and less is an easy day on the bike.. 2 yrs old and 42,000 miles... Most of it with the "wrong" fluids in it.

Bob

I am just over 9000 and will change after my ride on Sunday.

[Rodsct]

Interesting!

[185EZ]

Originally Posted by Amsoil Dealer Group

Again.... At least two to 3 times as many changes and there are still the performance benefits of using a Premium Synthetic.
I am just over 9000 and will change after my ride on Sunday.

You don't change your filter for 9000 miles?
Not looking at exact prices but your synthetic is about 3 times more expensive than conventional oil. There is no monetary savings there, just labor if you take it somewhere else.
I would rather change my oil and know that it's fresh and clean than wait for 9000 miles and realize I had a problem with some sort of internal problem. Case and point, my Mercury racing motor recommends 20 hour oil changes. If i would have waited 3 times as long, I wouldn't have seen the filings from the internal valve spring that broke and would have been screwed. Synthetic oil played no part in that failure, purely mechanical defect.
Performance advantage? Probably, but I would like to see proof that someone's motor is running 10* cooler just by switching. Too many variables for the average rider to make that claim.

[Rodsct]

Originally Posted by 185EZ

You don't change your filter for 9000 miles?
Not looking at exact prices but your synthetic is about 3 times more expensive than conventional oil. There is no monetary savings there, just labor if you take it somewhere else.
I would rather change my oil and know that it's fresh and clean than wait for 9000 miles and realize I had a problem with some sort of internal problem. Case and point, my Mercury racing motor recommends 20 hour oil changes. If i would have waited 3 times as long, I wouldn't have seen the filings from the internal valve spring that broke and would have been screwed. Synthetic oil played no part in that failure, purely mechanical defect.
Performance advantage? Probably, but I would like to see proof that someone's motor is running 10* cooler just by switching. Too many variables for the average rider to make that claim.

Then, speaking in general, would you recommend changing the conventional oil more often than waiting longer, in miles or time?
I apply the question to my bike, that sits a long time and doesn’t get that many miles a year.

[185EZ]

Originally Posted by Rodsct

Then, speaking in general, would you recommend changing the conventional oil more often than waiting longer, in miles or time?
I apply the question to my bike, that sits a long time and doesn’t get that many miles a year.

Considering the cost? I like to change my oil more often. Personal preferance.
Will synthetic last longer? Yes. But do you want all the impurities that the filter can't take out sitting in your motor for 3 times longer? Not me.
Moneywise? it all works out the same. It all depends on whether or not you want to change oil every year or every 3 years. Me? I like to pull the plug.

[Rodsct]

Originally Posted by 185EZ

Considering the cost? I like to change my oil more often. Personal preferance.
Will synthetic last longer? Yes. But do you want all the impurities that the filter can't take out sitting in your motor for 3 times longer? Not me.
Moneywise? it all works out the same. It all depends on whether or not you want to change oil every year or every 3 years. Me? I like to pull the plug.

Thanks for your advice
I’ll use full synthetic on my new engines that run few miles a year and sit in the garage most of the time.
And in the frequently used vehicles I’ll change it often, it’s so easy anyway, but then again, I’m a grease monkey!
In my bike’s case, I’m having a lot of trouble finding the oil filter, I even once bought one that had all the specifications for my model year (1990 ZX-6D1) but it just didn’t fit!
So If I can’t find the oil filter (like now, not even eBay has it) I better change the conventional oil more often than let a synthetic one, full of impurities, in there for a longer period!

[Mike P]

[Rodsct]

Originally Posted by Mike P

Do you wish to ad something to our discussion?


By the way! I does suck! See… it’s only about oil!
The really interesting ones are elsewhere.

[Mike P]

Originally Posted by Rodsct

Do you wish to ad something to our discussion?

Of course a guy with a user name like "Amsoil Dealer Group" is going to 100% back the product with well written propaganda for the products he sells.

[185EZ]

Originally Posted by Mike P

Of course a guy with a user name like "Amsoil Dealer Group" is going to 100% back the product with well written propaganda for the products he sells.

Exactly! I'm still waiting for the backlash from my own personal preferance on oil changes that have worked for me just fine over the years. I'm not bashing synthetics at all. I think they work great in certain applications but can be a waste of money in others.

[Mike P]

I can say this...

A friend that runs a private mostly HD bike shop, his son had an older R6. Not sure of the year but it had about 26k miles on the clock. After swapping from who knows what to Amsoil, the motor was idling almost 2300rpms after it was fully warmed up. Idle was adjusted one time to normal and stayed.

I rode the 6 before and after the swap, as bad as I hate to admit, it was a definite on the ass o meter. One of the single best things that was done to that bike.

My shop owner friend tries to sell me on the stuff even with a good discounted price also with free rack time to change. BUT I just can't do it. I've went down the synthetic road to many times with other high reving toys even boosted ones and can say from my experience, it did not save me any money what so ever in the long run.

{this was before the seemingly magical Rottela came out}

[Rodsct]

Originally Posted by Mike P

Of course a guy with a user name like "Amsoil Dealer Group" is going to 100% back the product with well written propaganda for the products he sells.

Originally Posted by 185EZ

Exactly! I'm still waiting for the backlash from my own personal preferance on oil changes that have worked for me just fine over the years. I'm not bashing synthetics at all. I think they work great in certain applications but can be a waste of money in others.

[hyperionjr]

I run Shell Rotella T full syn.

[Geezer]

i gotta go with mobil 1; still dispare of seeing a recent, independent study of m/c oils and am willing to have my mind changed, but for now gotta believe that the best oil is the one most recommended by the manufacturers of high performance vehicles.

[Amsoil Dealer Group]

Originally Posted by Geezer

i gotta go with mobil 1; still dispare of seeing a recent, independent study of m/c oils and am willing to have my mind changed, but for now gotta believe that the best oil is the one most recommended by the manufacturers of high performance vehicles.

If you click on the G2156 link in our Sig. it is ASTM Testing performed by several independent labs and at least one is a Non-Profit and one of the Top testing facilities in the US.

Mobil 1 Racing 4T is a very good oil.. No OEM recommends it that I am aware of. They all have their oils private labeled for them.

If you are talking Automotive, it needs to be more than just 'Mobil 1'... Mobil 1 is a company producing mostly petroleum products and the Synthetic Mobil 1 is 'Mobil 1 Extended Performance' and is approximately 30% Synthetic (PAO) with the remainder being Hydro-Cracked, petroleum and additives.

AMSOIL is 100% Synthetic except for the XL line which is NOT for Motorcycles.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

[Iluvmy636]

Originally Posted by Amsoil Dealer Group

If you click on the G2156 link in our Sig. it is ASTM Testing performed by several independent labs and at least one is a Non-Profit and one of the Top testing facilities in the US.

Mobil 1 Racing 4T is a very good oil.. No OEM recommends it that I am aware of. They all have their oils private labeled for them.

If you are talking Automotive, it needs to be more than just 'Mobil 1'... Mobil 1 is a company producing mostly petroleum products and the Synthetic Mobil 1 is 'Mobil 1 Extended Performance' and is approximately 30% Synthetic (PAO) with the remainder being Hydro-Cracked, petroleum and additives.

AMSOIL is 100% Synthetic except for the XL line which is NOT for Motorcycles.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

my dad tells me that amsoil can go up to a year w/o changing and I have read this on countless other sites. you just change the filter and thats it. my question is I have a 05 Kawi 636 and I have been using conventional. I am or was thinking about switching to synthetic but would that be bad for any seals/gaskets because of the year? being that synthetic oils have more detergents and chemicals in it than conventional oil?

[Amsoil Dealer Group]

Originally Posted by Iluvmy636

my dad tells me that amsoil can go up to a year w/o changing and I have read this on countless other sites. you just change the filter and thats it. my question is I have a 05 Kawi 636 and I have been using conventional. I am or was thinking about switching to synthetic but would that be bad for any seals/gaskets because of the year? being that synthetic oils have more detergents and chemicals in it than conventional oil?

No filter change is required if you use the AMSOIL EA Series Filters.

The limits on AMSOIL are, up to 2 times OEM drain interval up to 1 year in Mechanically sound, Unmodified engines.. Unmodified also includes junk wet gauze air filters which don't filter worth a dang.

ALL Synthetics are not alike. There are a couple on the market that may have an adverse effect on seals. AMSOIL, however, will not damage, shrink or do any harm to your seals, gaskets, Etc...

You can switch to AMSOIL at anytime, even brand new out of the showroom..

Figure out what you need for a change and email us AMSOIL@bestoil4you.com

If your bike is an 05 and has not had the brakes flushed, include a couple bottles of our DOT 4 Racing fluid..

Liquid Cooled ? Regular Anti-Freeze is ever 2 year recommended change.. ours is 5 year, has self sealing agents and water pump lube built right in to it..

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

[Hammerhead]

Originally Posted by Amsoil Dealer Group

Mobil 1 Racing 4T is a very good oil.. No OEM recommends it that I am aware of. They all have their oils private labeled for them.


The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

I think Triumph recommends Mobil 1 4T. It is sold in their dealerships with the "Triumph" logo, but is still clearly labeled Mobil 1 4T.

[Amsoil Dealer Group]

Originally Posted by Hammerhead

I think Triumph recommends Mobil 1 4T. It is sold in their dealerships with the "Triumph" logo, but is still clearly labeled Mobil 1 4T.

The 4T is a very good oil although AMSOIL still outperforms it and is comparably priced especially when purchased through us.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob