Oil Pressure Switch Issues - With Sketch! : Kawasaki ZX Forums: Kawasaki Ninja Forum

ArizonaZX11 · 02-26-2009, 06:54 PM

So, I posted about this a while ago and am having problems again. Basically, when I flip the ignition (not turning the motor), my oil light does not come on. This is a little bothersome as I would like to know if I have low pressure at one point or another while riding.

Here's my problem: I have the switch off the bike. It is pretty clean, so "cleaning rust off of it" is not really the issue here. Here are some issues:

1A.) I am going to assume the OPS is bad...
1.) If I ground the lead wire, should the light come on? If not, does this mean the lead wire is bad?
2.) If the wire and switch are bad, where the hell does the wire go to? (See sketch). It goes into this cluster-f of wires and then where? It is blue/red by the switch, but then on the other side of the bike, I think the OPS wire is brown/green
3.) If I use a DMM to test what parts are actually getting power, where should I test it?
4.) There is a red "joint" where the wire snaps in beneath the foot peg. If I buy a new lead wire, is this the replacement?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to avoid paying a shop $100 to snap in a wire if that is all it takes.

Figure 1: Sketch of Oil Pressure Lead Wire

Thanks!

ArizonaZX11 · 02-26-2009, 07:30 PM

Whoops, probably should mention its 1994 ZX-11

Mur386 · 02-26-2009, 07:56 PM

HI
You are correct that grounding the the ops wire should turn the light on, however, that assumes the problem is the switch, not a good idea, not having a schematic for your bike in front of me, not sure how it is wired. If we believe its just a simple circuit, no computers, then the circuit would be power from switch to oil pressure bulb and then to oil pressure switch. With multiple connections who knows where, you could take the dmm and check the switch contact to ground by connecting one lead to switch and the other to the block, it should read near 0 ohms, a normally closed switch, OR using a test light, hook test light clamp to battery positive and touch the switch, it should light meaning switch is ok. And.. you could use same dmm set to dc volts and measure at the switch connector with ignition on for voltage, ground lead attached to block. it should have voltage, the switch if working properly would take this voltage to ground, through the oil pressure switch and light the bulb, my dollar would go to a defective bulb, don't use your eyes to check it, use the dmm, probably just a peanut bulb anyway, not known for long life in vibration situations, and if the bike is a 1994, while your at the cluster, replace all the bulbs 194 are very inexpensive, and they are 15 yrs old

Hammerhead · 02-27-2009, 05:13 AM

You can check the switch with a continuity test light and compressed air. There is probably a relay somewhere that powers up the light when the ignition is first turned on for checking purposes. I would also tend to suspect the blub if the switch checks out.

ArizonaZX11 · 02-27-2009, 07:22 AM

I forgot to mention that as well, I checked the bulb in the gauge cluster and its fine, so that would have been a nice easy solution

ArizonaZX11 · 02-28-2009, 06:23 PM

thanks for all your help. Bump on more information about the wire junction by the foot peg. Any thoughts on this?

Mur386 · 02-28-2009, 09:15 PM

Yes here is a link to a pdf manual for the bike, maybe that will help
http://pdftown.com/Kawasaki-Ninja-ZX...ce-Manual.html
Bill

Hammerhead · 03-01-2009, 06:16 PM

Any exposed connector is a good suspect for corrosion and circuit breakage. I would think if you jump the leads of the OPS together, the light should come on. The pressure at the switch is what turns it off by breaking the circuit. This way, when the ignition switch is truned on, the light should be on until the motor is running and building oil pressure which should turn it off.

ArizonaZX11 · 03-13-2009, 05:49 PM

thanks for all your help guys...I appreciate it. I got a new lead wire and I think I got the light back on. Quick dumb question: when I put the new OPS in, do I need to apply some kind of silicon sealant or antiseeze lubricant on the threads so i dont strip the thread? Thanks

Hammerhead · 03-14-2009, 12:01 PM

A little teflon pipe tape won't hurt.

stiaskbit · 11-10-2009, 05:58 PM

I accept with information: With multiple connections who knows where, you could take the dmm and check the switch contact to ground by connecting one lead to switch and the other to the block, it should read near 0 ohms, a normally closed switch, OR using a test light, hook test light clamp to battery positive and touch the switch, it should light meaning switch is ok.

sulangli · 12-28-2009, 12:14 PM

I accept with information:1A.) I am going to assume the OPS is bad...
1.) If I ground the lead wire, should the light come on? If not, does this mean the lead wire is bad?
2.) If the wire and switch are bad, where the hell does the wire go to? (See sketch). It goes into this cluster-f of wires and then where? It is blue/red by the switch, but then on the other side of the bike, I think the OPS wire is brown/green
3.) If I use a DMM to test what parts are actually getting power, where should I test it?
4.) There is a red "joint" where the wire snaps in beneath the foot peg. If I buy a new lead wire, is this the replacement?