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01-17-2008, 10:56 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I Ride: 1992 zx-7
Posts: 438
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First time doing the brakes
I am puzzled on the brakes. I bought pads for the front and the rear but in the manual it says nothing about bleeding the lines first but i have to remove the banjo bolt??? If i remove the bolt then shouldnt i have to bleed the line first so the fluid doesnt leak out??? If some one can help this confused rider i would be very thankful. 
__________________
S.S. D&D with carbon fiber can, Stage 1 jet kit, ignition advancer, -1 in rear, K&N air filter,  smoke SR series windscreen, lowering kit
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01-17-2008, 01:30 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
From: indianapolis
I Ride: 1993 ZX750
Posts: 314
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Yor Calipers Should Come Apart Without Removing The Bolt! I Think!
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01-17-2008, 02:19 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Sep 2007
From: Lakeport, Ca
I Ride: ZX6R
Posts: 35
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You shouldn't have to remove the banjo bolt just to replace the pads. There are usually one or two pins that hold the pads in place. Slide the pins out (after removing the keeper that holds them in place) and the pads fall out.
It is however, a good idea to put fresh brake fluid in and bleed the system real good while you're at it.
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01-17-2008, 03:02 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I Ride: 1992 zx-7
Posts: 438
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here is the steps the manaul states...
remove rear caliper (see this chapter)
plastic pad cover
clips
pad pins
springs
and then when i see this chapter about the rear caliper it says
REAR CALIPER REMOVAL
remove banjo bolt
remove caliper mounting bolts
that is where i was confused i figured to remove the banjo bolt that i would have to drain the fluid from the lines. Please clear this for me if you can.
__________________
S.S. D&D with carbon fiber can, Stage 1 jet kit, ignition advancer, -1 in rear, K&N air filter,  smoke SR series windscreen, lowering kit
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01-18-2008, 04:41 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I Ride: 1992 zx-7
Posts: 438
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??? echo
__________________
S.S. D&D with carbon fiber can, Stage 1 jet kit, ignition advancer, -1 in rear, K&N air filter,  smoke SR series windscreen, lowering kit
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01-18-2008, 05:25 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Sep 2007
From: wisconsin
I Ride: 96 zx9r
Posts: 88
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why dont you just try pulling the caliper up just enugh to get the pads out ? did the 9 last fall dident have to take the line off.just be carfull not to kink the line!!!! 
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01-18-2008, 06:08 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
From: Australia
I Ride: ZX6R - 08
Posts: 454
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I have replaced the rear pads twice on my ZX6r and the front once. I simply remove the caliper off the disc and replace the pads. There is enough play in the brake line to not have to loosen the banjo bolt.
gammac
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01-18-2008, 06:40 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I Ride: 1992 zx-7
Posts: 438
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that is good enough for me. Thanks fellas... one more will i have to compress the pistons back into the caliper during this process like with a car??
__________________
S.S. D&D with carbon fiber can, Stage 1 jet kit, ignition advancer, -1 in rear, K&N air filter,  smoke SR series windscreen, lowering kit
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01-18-2008, 06:54 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
From: Cincinnati, OH
I Ride: 2000 ZX6R
Posts: 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridn92zx-7
that is good enough for me. Thanks fellas... one more will i have to compress the pistons back into the caliper during this process like with a car??
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yeah you will have to compress the pistons back. i have a break too i use however you can use a "C" clamp to do the same thing. two things though use a towel behind the piston so you dont scratch it and take the cap of the Res to make it easier to push.
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I live with FEAR and sometimes SHE lets me race!!
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01-18-2008, 07:12 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I Ride: 1992 zx-7
Posts: 438
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thanks chuck.. by the way i called pro stock and i think they can take care of me. thanks for the contact,
__________________
S.S. D&D with carbon fiber can, Stage 1 jet kit, ignition advancer, -1 in rear, K&N air filter,  smoke SR series windscreen, lowering kit
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01-19-2008, 07:11 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Sep 2007
From: Lakeport, Ca
I Ride: ZX6R
Posts: 35
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Might also want to clean the crud off the pistons before pushing them back in the caliper bore. If the crud gets pushed back in the bore it can cause the brakes to drag.
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01-22-2008, 08:49 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Jul 2007
From: USA
Posts: 97
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The manual says to remove the banjo to remove the caliper. Yes, to remove it from the bike. You don't need to remove the banjo just to remove the caliper from the disc.
What I always do when changing pads for all my vehicles...
Clean around the piston area first then push the pistons in with a c clamp AND open the bleeder valve so you push out most of the dirty black fluid rather than push it back into the caliper. Makes it easier to push the piston back in as well. Then I reassemble and bleed the brake line just a couple times to make sure the dirty fluid is completely gone.
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01-22-2008, 09:59 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I Ride: 1992 zx-7
Posts: 438
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dude i know what the manual says i can read. it says exactly what i wrote. Thanks for the tips.
__________________
S.S. D&D with carbon fiber can, Stage 1 jet kit, ignition advancer, -1 in rear, K&N air filter,  smoke SR series windscreen, lowering kit
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