hydraulic cltuch for 98 ZX9R : Kawasaki ZX Forums: Kawasaki Ninja Forum

aklboy · 10-26-2009, 02:14 AM

Hello guys,

small problem, but quite annoying tho.

this 98 model has a hydraulic clutch, and recently, I found:

When I put it in gears, it made a big clank. seems like not disengaging properly, plus

I have already adjusted the clutch lever to a very high posistion (already on "1"), which means after I pull it down and put it in gears, I need to almost straighten fingers to get it engage.

so to me, pulling down the lever that long distance should disengage the clutch properly, but in fact, it doesnt.

still makes a big clank when I stomp it into first gear, and also, sometimes it stalls the bike, especially when the bike is cold (but I dont think it is because of the temperature, I think its just because the engine has not gone into its smooth running status, anyway, this is what I think, might not be correct)

The problem remains the similar and seems not becoming easier or harder with the temperature going up or down.

I have bled the clutch 4-5 times now, but every time, no matter how many times I flushed it (max. I have done was about 30 times, squeeze-and-flush), or how hard I pressed the lever, there were always some very very very tiny bubbles coming out from the slave cylinder. I think I got the correct way to bleed it:

keep lever down, loosen the nut, tighten the nut, lever up, couple squeezes, and repeat.

btw, I have been to a mechanic, he said the noise was bit loud, but still reasonable (he pointed at a YZF R6 behind him ans told me that one had the smae problem and was louder!), which I didnt agree, as I used to have a ZXR400, and it made almost no noise when I gear it up, plus this one stalls the bike sometimes.

so, anybody has come across similar roblem? any ideas?

Thanks very much

aklboy · 10-26-2009, 02:32 AM

one more thing to mention:

I noticed that
on the day I finished bleeding it, it seemed working better (but not good enough though), but after one day, it went back to the same.

I noticed this becasue I have bled it several times so far.

raylsgreen · 10-26-2009, 12:20 PM

Must be a thing for those shipped to Auckland. No us 98 had or could have a hydraulic clutch. Based upon the Kawis I owned that did have a hydraulic clutch like my 89 ZX10, the clutch grab on dropping into first gear was somewhat normal because the plates tended to stick together. When really bad it indicated that the oil had been cooked on the plates and sanding and cleaning with acetone would help unless they were too warped. There isn't an adjustment on the clutch itself, just the position of the lever against the master cylinder. You might check the lever to make sure the pivot isn't worn but the clutch should engage/disengage at about 50% of full lever travel. When you change the button, you're really just changing the amount of travel of the lever.

For a while I was using an aftermarket set of plates and they were really sticky, especially when cold. Before starting I would pull in the lever and push the bike enough to brake the plates loose. That helped with the clunk but nothing got rid of it. If you really hate it now, you could try a good set of kevlar fiber plates with new steel ones.

zaneyzrex · 10-26-2009, 01:20 PM

if you have the lever set TO CLOSE to the bar it will not release the clutch completely. i had my zrx set to close and it would drag at lights... set it out one more adjustment on the bar and it works perfect....
those little bubbles are bad.... you really need a mity-vac to do a GOOD job on bleeding. the old fashion way is just that OLD FASHION..... plus once done bleeding at master you need to crack the banjo at the lever also... plus flicking the end of the lever will get the bubbles out of the piston area on the master .....

airgreesemonkey · 10-26-2009, 05:32 PM

i have a 98 zx7r and it has a hydraulic clutch

aklboy · 10-27-2009, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raylsgreen

Must be a thing for those shipped to Auckland. No us 98 had or could have a hydraulic clutch. Based upon the Kawis I owned that did have a hydraulic clutch like my 89 ZX10, the clutch grab on dropping into first gear was somewhat normal because the plates tended to stick together. When really bad it indicated that the oil had been cooked on the plates and sanding and cleaning with acetone would help unless they were too warped. There isn't an adjustment on the clutch itself, just the position of the lever against the master cylinder. You might check the lever to make sure the pivot isn't worn but the clutch should engage/disengage at about 50% of full lever travel. When you change the button, you're really just changing the amount of travel of the lever.

For a while I was using an aftermarket set of plates and they were really sticky, especially when cold. Before starting I would pull in the lever and push the bike enough to brake the plates loose. That helped with the clunk but nothing got rid of it. If you really hate it now, you could try a good set of kevlar fiber plates with new steel ones.

if I could get it engage at 50% travel, the problem would be solved, I think........

never done any clutch disc changing job before, is it possible to diy? I am reasonably good at "hand jobs". :)

thanks m8.

aklboy · 10-27-2009, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zaneyzrex

if you have the lever set TO CLOSE to the bar it will not release the clutch completely. i had my zrx set to close and it would drag at lights... set it out one more adjustment on the bar and it works perfect....
those little bubbles are bad.... you really need a mity-vac to do a GOOD job on bleeding. the old fashion way is just that OLD FASHION..... plus once done bleeding at master you need to crack the banjo at the lever also... plus flicking the end of the lever will get the bubbles out of the piston area on the master .....

at the moment it is too far away from the handle bar, but even that traval distance could not disengage the clutch properly. I am not worried about "slipping disc", which is engaging problem, it is disengage that p*sses me off.

Dont know how to do that old fashion stuff, I was taught with the current way. a bit more details? thanks!

aklboy · 10-27-2009, 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airgreesemonkey

i have a 98 zx7r and it has a hydraulic clutch

same problem?

zaneyzrex · 10-27-2009, 10:16 AM

ok then since your all the way out with your lever and its still acting up then it either still got air in it, (mity-vac) or the master on the bars is wore out (new seal/piston kit) or the slave cylinder on the motor is wore out (seal kit)

aklboy · 10-29-2009, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zaneyzrex

ok then since your all the way out with your lever and its still acting up then it either still got air in it, (mity-vac) or the master on the bars is wore out (new seal/piston kit) or the slave cylinder on the motor is wore out (seal kit)

ok i havent thought about the seals, that's probably why even i pumped the lever really hard and numerous times, there were still tiny tiny air bubbles in it.

do you think that could be the reason? thanks!