ZX6E Awful gas milage and smoke - ZX Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
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ZX6E Awful gas milage and smoke

Hello everyone i recently got ahold of a 1994 zx6e and love the bike so far, but im having a few issues with the bike that i thought maybe someone could help me with before i spent money trying to fix the issue on things that might not be causing it. As the title says im getting bad gas milage and by that i mean maybe 10 mpg tops and when im accelerating or cruising above around 5k rpm i can see smoke behind me that i assume is unburnt gas. I know it isnt coolant that was my first worry but ive kept an eye on coolant levels has yet to drop. as for things that have been checked the sparks plugs have been replaced so has the air filter ,oil changed and the bike has a new chain and sprockets on it and the last owner claims the carbs where rebuilt. the only mod on the bike is the last owner drilled out the mufflers. The only thing i can think of is that the carbs need rejetted due to this but with how bad the gas milage is i would imagine it would run bad but it runs really smooth overall except it dies out at idle sometimes but i think its just set to low. Anyone have any suggestions on what this could be causing the bad milage i assume the smoke comes with the milage and isnt a separate issue. Thanks in Advance

Last edited by jerickw; 02-13-2017 at 05:16 AM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 06:32 AM
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worst case, could be worn out rings or leaky valve seals causing smoke. worn rings would cause a drop in compression which could cause it to cut out at idle. leaky valve seals typically exhibit smoke at first start.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 06:35 AM
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could be jetted too rich causing poor mileage and smoke. what color is the smoke?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by n2mzx7 View Post
worst case, could be worn out rings or leaky valve seals causing smoke. worn rings would cause a drop in compression which could cause it to cut out at idle. leaky valve seals typically exhibit smoke at first start.
i will have to check compression myself the prior owner claimed he did a test and they where all in the 155-160 psi range if thats normal for this bike.

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could be jetted too rich causing poor mileage and smoke. what color is the smoke?
thats what im leaning towards but how low the milage is i just assume it would run bad but it still runs fine just wastes a ton of gas while driving. and the smoke is white i believe i usually just see it in my mirrors as im riding and its a lot of smoke
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 11:50 AM
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white=coolant. blueish smoke=oil. black smoke= rich
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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white=coolant. blueish smoke=oil. black smoke= rich
yes im aware but wouldn't my coolant be low than? i check it often and it is still full. could a gasket leak if that is the case cause awful milage but leave the bike seem as if its running fine?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 06:37 PM
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possibly, have you tried to bring the rpms up to that range while stationary to verify the color of the smoke? i have no experience with your bike, so i suggest you pick up a manual for the compression specs and it would be extremely helpful with anything you need to work on. however, speculation is nothing without hard data. check your compression, take the bike to a shop to have them pressure test your coolant system. how do your plugs look after running down the road? to many variables, you need to narrow things down.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 03:17 AM
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Since the coolant isn't low and I am assuming the oil is not going missing super fast, I would guess fuel related.. something in the carbs not right...either jetted way over, which is more unlikely, but I would think something like maybe the fuel floats stuck or maybe even one of the jets came loose..? but yea, more info is going to be the key..good luck

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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Since the coolant isn't low and I am assuming the oil is not going missing super fast, I would guess fuel related.. something in the carbs not right...either jetted way over, which is more unlikely, but I would think something like maybe the fuel floats stuck or maybe even one of the jets came loose..? but yea, more info is going to be the key..good luck

Johnny
Im hoping its carb related i just ordered a full vance and hines exhaust a stage one jet kit and four rebuild kits for the carbs so i can redo all of them when the new exhaust comes in. only thing other then gas usage is a small oil leak but its slow enough i only add oil every few weeks
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 03:34 AM
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Im hoping its carb related i just ordered a full vance and hines exhaust a stage one jet kit and four rebuild kits for the carbs so i can redo all of them when the new exhaust comes in. only thing other then gas usage is a small oil leak but its slow enough i only add oil every few weeks
I just rebuilt my carbs, I am a outboard motor mechanic and engines in general, I have always used Berryman 1 gal metal can dip to clean carbs...well, that has changed formulas and is crap now.. and there is no real replacement... I did a lot of reading and kept finding people talking about doing a 'pine sol' cleaning... you can google it... but it worked fairly well... not like the old berrymans..but decent.. you have to do a little scrubbing with brass or nylon brushs... I also used scotchbrite where it would reach... but carbs came out pretty clean.... the one thing I didn't do of the first go round, I didn't remove the brass seats that the float needles seal in, since they were stuck and I didn't have replacements... get replacements, I got the K&L kits from a member here that had new needle and seats...when I pulled them out, there was still crap behind the seats...even though I had sprayed, scrubbed, air pressure..etc etc... they were still funky... take EVERYTHING off/out of carb bases and do the overnight pinesol wash and then scrub under hot water...spray them out with carb cleaner and blow them with air... get cutting torch tip cleaner set and poke all the little holes with the micro wires...spray and air blow again...do this way beyond what you think looks necessary.... doing it once is quicker than doing it several times...haha... check your tank for rust...new filter and new fuel hoses... my tank has some rust... I just ordered the Caswell two part epoxy sealer for it.. epoxy is the only way to go with that..IMO... single stage stuff is weak..

Good luck

Johnny
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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I just rebuilt my carbs, I am a outboard motor mechanic and engines in general, I have always used Berryman 1 gal metal can dip to clean carbs...well, that has changed formulas and is crap now.. and there is no real replacement... I did a lot of reading and kept finding people talking about doing a 'pine sol' cleaning... you can google it... but it worked fairly well... not like the old berrymans..but decent.. you have to do a little scrubbing with brass or nylon brushs... I also used scotchbrite where it would reach... but carbs came out pretty clean.... the one thing I didn't do of the first go round, I didn't remove the brass seats that the float needles seal in, since they were stuck and I didn't have replacements... get replacements, I got the K&L kits from a member here that had new needle and seats...when I pulled them out, there was still crap behind the seats...even though I had sprayed, scrubbed, air pressure..etc etc... they were still funky... take EVERYTHING off/out of carb bases and do the overnight pinesol wash and then scrub under hot water...spray them out with carb cleaner and blow them with air... get cutting torch tip cleaner set and poke all the little holes with the micro wires...spray and air blow again...do this way beyond what you think looks necessary.... doing it once is quicker than doing it several times...haha... check your tank for rust...new filter and new fuel hoses... my tank has some rust... I just ordered the Caswell two part epoxy sealer for it.. epoxy is the only way to go with that..IMO... single stage stuff is weak..

Good luck

Johnny
thank you very much for all the info on cleaning the carbs ill definitely look into that method and ill be sure to completely take it apart to clean it.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 05:42 AM
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Have you looked at the spark plugs?
If it's burning coolant the plugs will have a whitish color almost looks like a new plug.
Black and oily is burning oil.
Black and wet might be gas

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 08:08 AM
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sticking the carbs into full fat coke or diesel fuel for a couple of days will do the same cleaning trick.

when you were opening the throttle and you had the smoke, was the bike coughing?
i recently worked on a bandit that had a similar problem and it was down to internet mumbo jumbo. The guy had drilled a 50mm hole into his airbox, stuck on a muffler that had about the same back pressure and manufacturing stability as a soda can(same size too), replaced the standard jets with the same kind of size you would expect in a car and then jammed the needles up higher with washers.
The idea is in theory correct - increase air flow and fuel flow to make it faster. The method it was gone about though was something of a Dr Frankenstein job.

I plugged the hole in the casing.
Cleaned the K&N filter through and oiled it.
Got some smaller rated jets to bring the ratio back into a rough value, i didn't go back to standard as tried to compensate for the coke can muffler.
Removed the washers (do you call them shims?) from under the needles
Changed the plugs as all the over fueling and running hot had killed them
Put the pilot screws back to standard and then opened them up 1/4 turn more to allow for demand. Instead of the range of settings i found (1 turn out one side progressing to 4 turns on the other!)
Then went about balancing up the carbs using a carbtune gauge. Had to tweak the pilots slightly to help out but the setting screws did their job.

Something that sounds as in need of attention as yours i would put it back to standard as far as possible and then make sure it runs, then start adding toys.

Make sure your throttle and choke cables are setup too as that can mess with your performance.
Put it all back together and then balanced the carbs up
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