2012 ZX14R runs shitty in town after long ride. - ZX Forums
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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2012 ZX14R runs poorly in town after long ride.

After long rides on the freeway or in the twisties, I notice that the engine wants to die when I get back into town and stop at a red light or stop sign. And, I noticed that when accelerating from a stop, if I just give a little throttle the engine also wants to die. Recently, I've been giving extra throttle just to keep the rpm tacking a little higher so that I don't stall.

I've never had any work done (other than oil, oil filter, and tires) and it has about 29,000 miles.

Is this normal for a hot Ninja after a long ride?
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 01:40 AM
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With such high mileage, were the valves ever adjusted? battery charge checked out fine?



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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by WillZX14 View Post
With such high mileage, were the valves ever adjusted? battery charge checked out fine?
If you don't find anything there, remove the tank, pull the fuel pump and check the filter screen.

Normally, valves lose clearance (usually exhaust valves more than intakes) and the engine will be hard to start when cold.

On a carbureted machine, cold engine issues usually relate to a lean condition and hot engine issues to a rich condition. With EFI, it's the opposite. Your problem occurs with a hot engine, so that makes me think it's starving for fuel.

It may be a pig, but it's a pig with a rocket in it's ass!
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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@WillZX14 -- I've never had the valves adjusted and it is still the original battery. Starts just fine, so I think the battery is still okay.

@Hammerhead -- Thanks for the suggestion to check the fuel filter screen.

Ah . . . it looks like I'll have to take it into the shop then. Saturdays are usually walk-in simple jobs at the dealer, so I don't know if they'd be willing to tackle this until early next week.
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 09:04 AM
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I'd be interested to find out what actually was the issue since I have the exact same bike. Good luck !



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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 05:23 PM
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A friend had a brand-new 14 R and it started running like fried crap on a road trip. When he pulled the tank and took out the fuel pump, the screen was nearly 100% blocked with sand from a crappy gas station he had to fuel up from. Cleaned it up, put it back together and it ran fine afterwards. Worth a look.

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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 05:26 PM
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Where i am ,we have such drastic changes in altitude, i literally have to adjust idle set screw often , sometimes idle drops to about 800 rpm
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmechanic9 View Post
Where i am ,we have such drastic changes in altitude, i literally have to adjust idle set screw often , sometimes idle drops to about 800 rpm
I thought the 14 was made to shut down at idle below 900 unless your tach is off

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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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I am going up to about 7,000 ft (Big Bear) or 5,000 ft (Angeles Crest Forest Highway), but the freeway portion at the end of the ride is about 45 minutes to 1 hour at not too far above sea level when coming back from Big Bear and about 20 minutes just above sea level when coming back from the ACF.

I didn't make it into the shop on Saturday, so I'll take it in on either Monday or Tuesday.

Last edited by lawlist; 08-21-2016 at 06:39 AM.
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Because it has a little more than 29,000 and has never had a service (other than oil/filter), they want to do a full service:

* Gasket, Head Cover; quantity 1
* Gasket, Head Hole; quantity 4
* Ring-O; quantity 6
* Gasket, Tensioner; quantity 1
* Element-Air Filter; quantity 1
* CR9EIA-9 Spark Plug; quantity 4
* Aluma Cool QT Pre Dl (aka oil); quantity 4

Total in parts: $291.89.

Labor will be in the neighborhood of $700.00.

A few of the parts are on special order and will arrive in a couple of days. They said I will need to leave the bike (after the special order of parts arrive) so the valves can be adjusted when the bike is cold. I've already prepaid the parts.
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 01:33 PM
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Aluma Cool is coolant. Seems pretty steep on the parts, but the work is pro-rated at about 8 hrs labor.

It may be a pig, but it's a pig with a rocket in it's ass!
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 185EZ View Post
I thought the 14 was made to shut down at idle below 900 unless your tach is off
Imay have exaggerated by 50 ish RPM
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Aluma Cool is coolant. . . .
That makes me feel a little better about the expense since I just had my oil and filter changed a week ago when they put on new tires, and I was thinking that the oil change was wasted because now they're going to do it again. I'm glad to hear that it is coolant instead that I paid for this time around -- thank you. :)

Last edited by lawlist; 08-22-2016 at 01:56 PM.
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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 04:35 PM
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If they are adjusting the valves the 1st time at 29K I'm surprised, and its a red flag, that they dont recommend a throttle body sync also. Who is the proposed service??

If it was me I would do it myself and maybe have then do the TB sync, but I have concern the min wage bozo even know how to do a TB sync.

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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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If they are adjusting the valves the 1st time at 29K I'm surprised, and its a red flag, that they dont recommend a throttle body sync also. Who is the proposed service?? . . .
It is a local Kawasaki dealer in the Los Angeles area. I can request/suggest a throttle body sync and order parts in advance (if they are needed). Since the bike will be apart when they are operating, I might as well do whatever is regularly required while it's opened up.

I generally don't spend money on maintenance (other than oil/filter) until my vehicles give me overt signs of needing mechanical attention. So this would definitely be the first major service for this bike since I bought it new in 2012. I don't think I ride it that hard -- I'm almost never in the power band and it's never been to redline, unless a mechanic took it for a test spin after an oil change or tire change and revved it up.

Last edited by lawlist; 08-22-2016 at 04:51 PM.
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 04:58 PM
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Lawlist,

The TB Sync is a process to set the TB vacuum to spec and balance the 4 TBs after the valve adjust. Should not involve parts. The service needs an expensive Kawi tool (~$2K) to do the service correctly, make sure they have it, Special Tool - Vacuum Gauge 57001-1369.

We should meet up for a ride up to Newcombs after your beast is brought back to life.

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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 05:05 PM
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I agree with HH those parts seem to be a bit pricey.
I haven't priced them out individually but just guessing that the plugs and air filter should be $100 and that leaves some gaskets at almost $200.
I would make sure what you're getting because of this,
Quote:
Labor will be in the neighborhood of $700.00.
Are you geting a valve clearance "check" or actual adjustment?
And like rswendsen said make sure to get TB sync.
Me? I would be asking more questions as to what I'm actually getting for $1000

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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rswendsen View Post
Lawlist,

The TB Sync is a process to set the TB vacuum to spec and balance the 4 TBs after the valve adjust. Should not involve parts. The service needs an expensive Kawi tool (~$2K) to do the service correctly, make sure they have it, Special Tool - Vacuum Gauge 57001-1369.

We should meet up for a ride up to Newcombs after your beast is brought back to life.

Two grand for a set of vacuum gauges? Holy shit, they must be made of platinum.

It may be a pig, but it's a pig with a rocket in it's ass!
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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@rswendsen: Thank you for helping me understand what is meant by a throttle body sync -- greatly appreciated. I wouldn't be able to keep up with anyone remotely familiar with the ACH, as I'm generally in the 50 MPH range on the moderate curves, and usually move to the right when the experienced riders zip on by. I lean the bike over quite a bit sometimes, but am not one to touch my knee to the ground. :) The PowerPilot 2CT have kept me upright since 2012, so I'm sticking with them until they become discontinued.

@185EZ: Thank you for the distinction between a check and an adjustment. In my own mind, I had assumed it was an adjustment, but cannot remember 100% if that was what was discussed this morning when I had them order the parts they thought was needed. When I bring the bike back in once the parts arrive (in a few days), I'll be sure to clarify that I want "the works" for my $700.00 in labor.
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 185EZ View Post
I agree with HH those parts seem to be a bit pricey.
I haven't priced them out individually but just guessing that the plugs and air filter should be $100 and that leaves some gaskets at almost $200.
I would make sure what you're getting because of this,

Are you geting a valve clearance "check" or actual adjustment?
And like rswendsen said make sure to get TB sync.
Me? I would be asking more questions as to what I'm actually getting for $1000
IIRC, the cover gasket was around $36, the plug well gaskets $8 each, iridium plugs (the best) were $7-8 apiece.The cover sealing washers are a couple bucks each. The CCT gasket is a freakin O-ring. Engine Ice runs around $19 bucks a jug and you need a jug-and-a-half. They can get up to $10 a shim for valve adjustment shims, but they get to keep the ones that come out. So without shims, around $150 in parts would be more in line.

Biggest time-consumer is ripping off and replacing the plastic and disconnecting and reconnecting of all the electrical multi-plugs. Throttle body synch takes about an hour because you need a long, right-angle screwdriver and it's a bitch to find and turn the screws. (I use a mirror on an extension handle) Removing and replacing the plugs and doing the valve shim check and replace is only a couple of hours tops. But if they charge $85/ hr. for 8 hrs, that's $680 right there.

It may be a pig, but it's a pig with a rocket in it's ass!

Last edited by Hammerhead; 08-22-2016 at 05:36 PM.
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