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02-23-2008, 12:00 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Feb 2008
From: Boston
Posts: 58
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Total F'n Overhaul!!!
Hey guys,
I just got this bike last year and it needs some work. I want to spend some money to get it into good condition. What do you think it needs? I will post the before and after pics when it is done.
The bike is a 2001 ZX-7R
16,000mi, Dunlop 208 tires - 190/50 on the rear
Two brothers slip on pipe
aftermarket winscreen, tank pad, signals, undertail, seat (the usual)
Other than that completely stock
I want to get this bike back to its original condition keeping the mechanicals as stock as possible with maybe a few improvements.
Im thinking:
- new sprockets + chain
- New header and pipe (why is it so rusty?) im gonna keep the can i think.
- Total cleaning - its dirty as hell
- stainless steel brake lines
- Check supsension
- Check fork seals
- New spark plugs, fluids, filters, lube
- New maintenance free battery (what kind should i get?)
- carb cleaned
Also, I have a couple of Q's:
- It has some kind of oil leak as you can see on the floor - could this be the clutch oil? I noticed that the clutch oil resovoir (?) next to the handle bars is completely out of oil and the clutch case at the bottom has a small window but i cant see any oil in there. look at the pics and let me know what you think. The oil pan (i think thats what it is) seems to be covered in dirty oil... not sure if this is a sign of a real problem or not.
- My tires seem to be discouloured around the edges but to have lots of tread left. They are brown on the side and blue on the edges of the tread.
Should I get new tires and if so what kind would be good for a beginner ( i dont want the steering to be super sensitive) and super sticky. I dont mind getting new tires every year if they keep me safe.
- I wanted to get a new header... should i get a stock one? i heard they are decent anyways. does anyone know how much a stock header is and if you can get a stainless one that wont rust?
- My suspension seems soft but I dont mind it... is this bad for the bike in any way? I heard that ZX-7R's need to have it replaced or fixed after 10,000mi and my bike has 16,000mi. I doubt it has ever been worked on.
Im taking it in for spring tune up soon so thanks for any advise you can give. 
__________________
1989 ZXR 750H & 2001 ZX-7R
Last edited by rodneyc : 02-23-2008 at 12:16 PM.
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02-23-2008, 03:39 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
From: down under
I Ride: ZX10R SE
Posts: 655
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hey Rodneyc I think we need to straighten a few things out so i will answer each question one by one .
1. Your engine oil and clutch oil are one in the same. This is why bikes need more regular oil changes as bike oil is generally thinner and the polymers are under more load continously thus causing more wear. The clear glass bubble that you mention is your oil level. Make sure that you have your bike upright when checking (not on side stand) as this will send your oil to the other side and also make sure the bike is cold or at least 20mins after riding as this will allow your oil to settle, again for a more acturate reading.
2. The casing that are mentioning on your handle bars is your front brakes fluid housing. If this is empty you will need to bleed the front brake and also check for a leak (if you have a leak then I would reccomend braided lines instead of standard replacements).
3. It seems your bike has been left out in the conditions by it previous owner. I think that your tires are old and therefore have caused some discolouration. Although there is no evidence of sidewall craking check to see if your tires have gone hard and replace if you have any doubts.
4. Header are one of those topics that polarises opinions. Most will tell you that they dont offer any benificial power as stock header are generally good quality and offer minimal power gains for the money. Not sure what stock headers are worth brand new but as a general rule aftermarket are usually cheaper. Check two bros for there header prices and definitly keep the pipe (looks in good nic) otherwise go second hand stock.
5. Definitly replace that chain but as a general when replacing a chain replace the spockets as well as they wear and bed in with existing chain over time and this disformation will cause rapid wear on the new chain.
6. Clean the bike and then check for leaks on both the forks and sump before tearing them apart. There would be alot of oily residue from the road and brake dust that forms over time and that's what looks like to be on your engine.
Hope this helps and let me know if I left anything out.
__________________
God gave man a brain and a penis, but only enough blood to run one at a time
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02-23-2008, 04:50 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Aug 2006
From: ny
I Ride: 06 zx10r
Posts: 40
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i had a 98zx7r i loved the bike..if i were you i would change that chain asap it looks pretty bad from the pic, i would aso do the sprockets at the same time i use to have a muzzy pipe on my bike then i went back w the whole stock setup and the bike ran so much better and more powerful dont know y that was but i would go stock on the pipe and headers jmo well good luck w the 7r enjoy n be safe
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02-23-2008, 05:07 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
From: Morris Plains, NJ
I Ride: 06 kawi 10r in too fast orange, 06 CBR 1000RR Repsol and drive a 4 banger all wheel drive turbo charged go cart lancer contraption aka EVO
Posts: 1,611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester
hey Rodneyc I think we need to straighten a few things out so i will answer each question one by one .
1. Your engine oil and clutch oil are one in the same. This is why bikes need more regular oil changes as bike oil is generally thinner and the polymers are under more load continously thus causing more wear. The clear glass bubble that you mention is your oil level. Make sure that you have your bike upright when checking (not on side stand) as this will send your oil to the other side and also make sure the bike is cold or at least 20mins after riding as this will allow your oil to settle, again for a more acturate reading.
2. The casing that are mentioning on your handle bars is your front brakes fluid housing. If this is empty you will need to bleed the front brake and also check for a leak (if you have a leak then I would reccomend braided lines instead of standard replacements).
3. It seems your bike has been left out in the conditions by it previous owner. I think that your tires are old and therefore have caused some discolouration. Although there is no evidence of sidewall craking check to see if your tires have gone hard and replace if you have any doubts.
4. Header are one of those topics that polarises opinions. Most will tell you that they dont offer any benificial power as stock header are generally good quality and offer minimal power gains for the money. Not sure what stock headers are worth brand new but as a general rule aftermarket are usually cheaper. Check two bros for there header prices and definitly keep the pipe (looks in good nic) otherwise go second hand stock.
5. Definitly replace that chain but as a general when replacing a chain replace the spockets as well as they wear and bed in with existing chain over time and this disformation will cause rapid wear on the new chain.
6. Clean the bike and then check for leaks on both the forks and sump before tearing them apart. There would be alot of oily residue from the road and brake dust that forms over time and that's what looks like to be on your engine.
Hope this helps and let me know if I left anything out.
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 , also ure bike will take a lot of $ to be good again. The chain is a must, new tires, headers, overhaul is a must.
Goodluck
__________________
Drive like im about to do 25 to life and ride like a cheetah on cocaine
2006 KAWI ZX 10 R- ARATA full system in titanium, PCIII, custom map, bmc race filter, puig db
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02-23-2008, 05:57 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Feb 2008
From: Boston
Posts: 58
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thanks for everyone's input. If anyone has any other ideas, let me know. I will post new pics when i get the work done... hopefully within the next few weeks.
__________________
1989 ZXR 750H & 2001 ZX-7R
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02-23-2008, 10:29 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
From: S.W. OHIO
I Ride: 07' ZX-14, 93' FJ1200 and your Mama
Posts: 594
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Make sure you check the condition of the rotors and brake pads going fast is only fun if you can stop when your done! I would check every bolt and nut I could reach looks like the previous owner wasn't much for maintanance. Ohter than that I think Jester nailed it again...He's the man!!!
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02-23-2008, 10:46 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Feb 2008
From: Boston
Posts: 58
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yeah I had the brakes checked by one mechanic and he said they had enough material left. but im gonna get them checked again anyways.
The previous owner was the original owner and told me didnt know anything about motorcycle mechanics, and just took it into the shop once a year for a "tune up" and whatever it needed.
What are people's thoughts on tires? Pirelli or dunlop or something else?
Im thinking about getting Pirelli corsa III's or dunlop qualifiers.
__________________
1989 ZXR 750H & 2001 ZX-7R
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02-24-2008, 10:15 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
From: Plymouth Meeting, PA
I Ride: 91 ZX600C4 Ninja
Posts: 144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax2295
 , also ure bike will take a lot of $ to be good again. The chain is a must, new tires, headers, overhaul is a must.
Goodluck
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I've actually never seen a chain that bad. I would forget about the headers. They're where all the hot gases come out after combustion. Heat oxidizes metal; like disc brakes. So if you ever really ride and occasionally get stuck in rain, you'll have this.
The first thing you should buy is a manual. Get caught up on what fluids go where.
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02-24-2008, 10:17 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
From: Plymouth Meeting, PA
I Ride: 91 ZX600C4 Ninja
Posts: 144
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Oh, and if the tires still have a good tread and aren't dry-rotted, use them.
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02-24-2008, 07:59 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
From: S.W. OHIO
I Ride: 07' ZX-14, 93' FJ1200 and your Mama
Posts: 594
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 on the manual!
The knowledge of your bike and it's systems is the best tool you can have in your garage.
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02-24-2008, 10:05 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
From: queensland australia
I Ride: green 07 kawasaki zx10r
Posts: 451
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man that bike looks like its been ridden down at the beach!!!! or atleast in an area known for snow and salting of the roads??? maybe it was never washed and rinsed off??? ive never seen headers looking that bad, hope you got it cheap. cant wait to see the finished pics. glad the original owner sold it, that bike deserves more respect than that. good luck with it.
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02-25-2008, 10:00 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Newbie
Joined: Feb 2008
From: ca
Posts: 2
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Work & Nice
Work & Nice
Power Style
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03-28-2008, 03:40 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Newbie
Joined: Mar 2008
From: mechanicsville Va.
Posts: 26
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[quote=Jester;58178]hey Rodneyc I think we need to straighten a few things out so i will answer each question one by one .
2. The casing that are mentioning on your handle bars is your front brakes fluid housing. If this is empty you will need to bleed the front brake and also check for a leak (if you have a leak then I would reccomend braided lines instead of standard replacements).
3. It seems your bike has been left out in the conditions by it previous owner. I think that your tires are old and therefore have caused some discolouration. Although there is no evidence of sidewall craking check to see if your tires have gone hard and replace if you have any doubts.
5. Definitly replace that chain but as a general when replacing a chain replace the spockets as well as they wear and bed in with existing chain over time and this disformation will cause rapid wear on the new chain.
6. Clean the bike and then check for leaks on both the forks and sump before tearing them apart. There would be alot of oily residue from the road and brake dust that forms over time and that's what looks like to be on your engine.
QUOTE]
first things first, CLEAN IT... take the fairing OFF. tank, and clean it as much as possible , cover important items like carbs, coils, ect. spray it down with a good degreaser and pressure wash it if u can , u may havta do it a few times, the entire bike! the tires and chain are fine. clean them as well, as soon as u spray a decent degreaser such as simple green , or purple power, the brown will float off. may take a few time to really be clean same for teh chain. u will have to clean , then move the bike, and clean sum more. then raise the rear u can do this anumber of ways, if you have help put the kick stand down , and get then to pull it toward the kickstand enuff to raise the rear tire. coat the chain down with PB blaster , or WD40 let it do the work , itll free the kinks and start attackin rust. then when its mostly drip dry lube it with 80w90 gear oil. itll drip also . the canister you talk about is INDEED the clutch its on the left bar, the brake resi. is on the right . as far as clutch LEAKAGE, i doubt that spots it... the master cylinder feeds down teh left side under the generator. theres a bleed screw jus like brakes , fill it and bleed it , keepin your eye on the resi, cuz its small and goes quick. it would be a good idea to suck dry all the resiviors and fill with fresh and bleed them all, front and rear brakes and clutch. fluid gets old and dirty from time, light , and heat. it is corosive to the components and PAINT. so wipe up and spilt fluid. CHANGE YOUR OIL/ FILTER . and DONT forget the COOLANT !!! so many people over look this. it may be a good idea to take ur resivoir off and spray it out . ESPECIALLY if its dry. when u fill it again , the old residue will flake off and contaminate ur fresh coolant. and possibly cause a clog. if u have the time, it never hurts to replace the fork seals especially if its halfway torn down , and your not ridin the bike anyway. then you KNOW what you have. . id also clean the carbs . and dont forget to do the tank, it FEEDS the carbs... after its clean get a can of seafoam and fill her up with premium fuel. this will help clean up the internals and be a lil more responsive and possibly quiet valve chatter. last but not least. spark plugs... they provide the fire to get ya goin. foul spark is a not so pleasnt experience. new plugs when its all said and done.... hope you get it all straight were redoion a 98zx7r now. and its lookin pretty hott. after i fix all the fairings imma lay a fresh coat of paint. and pics WILL go up. good luck on yours and let us know wuts up !!!
Q
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03-28-2008, 03:42 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Newbie
Joined: Mar 2008
From: mechanicsville Va.
Posts: 26
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if you do get different tires, u can send those to me, ill scrap em for ya free of charge..;)
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04-16-2008, 11:17 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
From: queensland australia
I Ride: green 07 kawasaki zx10r
Posts: 451
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so.....im curious, hows the overhaul going? complete? anymore pics? anything found that made you wish you'd never started? what sort of $$$$ have you had to spend?.
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05-18-2008, 02:55 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Member
Joined: Jul 2007
From: GB, Wisco
I Ride: 98 zx7r
Posts: 59
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sounds like a good checklist for me after i get everything put back on my new frame... my bike sat in the elements for a few years... not good...
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